When there is only one solution

Uncategorized 3 Minutes

Occasionally the combination of damage from age and the original binding methods produce a nearly impossible challenge. Here is an example:

Four volumes of a rare edition of an account of touring through Italy in 1802. All spine labels were missing and all the covers (yes, all eight) were detached. The tight backs were still very decorative but the leather was dry and fragile and there was no possibility of removing them so as to re-attach the covers in the normal way, with new leather joints.

About thirty years ago Don Etherington in the US devised a compromise method, using repair tissue only. With one minor variation that is what I did.

First remove the endpapers. You want every bit if possible, so ease the endpaper up from the next leaf (usually a blank but possibly a half-title) by running the top of your fingernail under it to break the paste joint and gently pulling it away from the backing joint.

The new hinge for each cover is made by gluing a strip of strong Japanese tissue (I use Kozu paper, about 35 gsm) under the endpaper and then over the cover and under a flap of the cover leather.

The Kozu paper, about one inch wide, is glued on to the leaf under the endpaper which is then replaced, flush up to the backing joint
Notice the frayed edge of the tissue strip – this helps to conceal the edge after the repair is complete. The strip of Kozu is torn off after wetting the line of ‘cut’ with a fine brush or the point of a wetted bone folder. The lifted flap of cover leather is shown.

Lifting the flap of cover leather is easy if it is done in three separate actions. First cut along the outer edge of a gold or blind line with a sharp scalpel. Second, use that cut line to chisel under the line with a small lifting knife.

Please note – I am left-handed. The action is to push the lifting knife into the first cut at an angle of not less than 30 degrees, away from you and upwards. This will ensure the knife goes into the board under the leather.
The wider lifting knife, at the same 30 degree angle easily lifts enough for the tissue to go under – again pushing with a chisel action into and up the line of cut.
These two tools are the key to this repair procedure (and to many others in repair work). the smaller one is about 10mm wide and is made from a standard hacksaw blade. Most bookbinding suppliers stock them. Mine is wrapped in leather for comfort. The larger one is also made from an old hacksaw blade, but in this case an industrial one, about 35mm wide. Also wrapped for comfort. I have had both for over 30 years. The knife is flat on the underside and the ground bevel is at an angle of about 20 degrees.

The next step is to colour the flap of tissue to match the cover leather. I use acrylic paint rather that spirit stain – it’s easier to get the shade right.

This shows the tissue painted and loosely tucked under the flap of cover leather. In fact the shade is not quite right so another coat will be applied until the match is correct. Better to start too light and then darken.

When the colour match is right, roughen the surface of the narrow strip of cover leather against the edge of the board so as to get a good adhesion when the tissue flap in glued down. If that narrow strip is badly decayed, remove it and replace it with a strip of thin card as shown on previous posts.

Coloured tissue hinge glued under the lifted cover leather and nipped in the press.

The tissue is trimmed flush against the edges of the end paper but a small flap is left at top and bottom of the cover board.

The flap is pasted and smoothed up over the edge of the cover board, giving a neat finish.

Next, check inside the joint. If the inside of the tissue hinge is very visible, cover it with another strip of the same tissue.

And colour it to simulate the marble effect.

If the coloured strip looks a bit ‘bright’, dull it down with a finger wiped in surface dust – Bernard Middleton used to use dust from he top of the door into his bindery..

Finally make new labels for the title and volume panels on the spine. There is an earlier post about making labels.

A good polish and the books are ready to return to the client.

I should add that this was a repair, not a restoration. Two headcaps are still missing and some of the corners bumped and worn. But the set is readable and can stand on the shelf securely.

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Published by therebindery

Began bookbinding as a hobby 45-plus years ago. Acquired some degree of skill through practice, courses and workshops. Acquired good range of equipment, tools and materials and set up home bindery. For the past 25 years I have undertaken all kinds of repair and binding work for booksellers and collectors. I live near Stroud in Gloucestershire, UK.

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